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Build the airspeed tube

This procedure makes the airspeed tube from brass tube. The tube supplies total pressure only. The two static ports in the Fuselage Front supply static pressure. To install the tube, refer to the build path, step 7, the nose package (N1 and N2). To test the installed tube, refer to the first-flight card, step 21. Airspeed tube nose gives the reasons for the shape of the tube.

The tube is 80.90 mm long and 4 mm in diameter, with an open front end and a collar. Its mass is 3.63 g.

  1. Get the parts and the tools in the tables.
  2. Read the drawing. All dimensions are in millimetres along the axis from the front face.
A technical drawing of a brass tube on a light card. The upper half is shown in section. Dimensions above the tube give 80.90 overall (cut 83, trim square after facing the front) and 55.72 to the collar's front face. A grey collar of two rings, 1.5 long and 6 in diameter, sits near the aft end. A label at the right gives 4 diameter, 0.45 wall, bore 3.1. Detail A, enlarged, shows the mouth in full section: a 30 degree included internal cone 1.31 deep from 3.8 at the lip to the 3.1 bore, a 0.1 flat land, and the note that the outer edge is deburred only. Notes at the right give the reason for the open nose (NACA TN 3641) and the installed position.
The airspeed tube, dimensioned. Dimensions are in millimetres along the axis from the front face. Detail A shows the mouth. Open the full drawing.
Part Quantity Source
K&S brass tube, 4 mm x 0.45 mm wall 83 mm Parts list, row 11g
K&S brass tube, 5 mm x 0.45 mm wall One ring, 1.5 mm Parts list, row 11l
K&S brass tube, 6 mm x 0.45 mm wall One ring, 1.5 mm Parts list, row 11m
Soft solder and flux As necessary Shop stock
Tool Note
Wheel tube cutter Cuts the ends square
V-bit, 30°, 3 flutes, carbide, 1/4 in shank (CIC Workshop VSC30) Parts list, bench tools
T-handle tap wrench Holds the 1/4 in shank
Vise with soft jaws Holds the tube
Calipers Measure the length and the collar position
Magnifier Lets you see the 0.1 mm land
Fine file, 400 and 1000 grit abrasive paper Remove the burrs
Soldering iron
Isopropyl alcohol Removes the flux
A top view of parts laid out on a light ground. At the top, a dark T-handle tap wrench holds a grey V-bit that points right. Below it is a long brass tube. In a row at the bottom are two short brass tubes, a short dark red silicone sleeve and a small grey screw. Labels with leader lines name each item: brass tube, K&S 4 mm x 0.45 wall, cut 83 mm; K&S 5 mm and 6 mm x 0.45 tube, one 1.5 mm ring each; silicone sleeve, 3 x 5 mm, 11 mm long; M2 x 6 clamp screw; V-bit, 30 degrees, 3 flutes, carbide, 1/4 in shank (CIC Workshop VSC30), with the note that a 1/8 in shank is too small; T-handle tap wrench.
T1: the parts and tools. The 4 mm tube is cut to 83 mm. One 1.5 mm ring comes from each of the 5 mm and 6 mm tubes.
  1. Cut 83 mm of the 4 mm tube with the tube cutter.
  2. Tighten the wheel a small quantity at each turn. Do not crush the tube.

Check: The front end is square to the axis. The tube is round at the cut.

  1. Put the V-bit in the tap wrench.
  2. Hold the tube in the vise with soft jaws. Let 10 mm of the front end extend.
  3. Put the tip of the bit into the front end.
  4. Turn the bit clockwise with light pressure. The bit centres itself in the bore.
  5. Stop when a flat land of 0.1 mm remains at the lip. Use the magnifier to see the land.
  6. Remove the bit.
  7. Remove the burr from the outer edge with 1000 grit abrasive paper. Do not make the edge round.

Check: The land is even around the full lip. The outer edge is sharp, not round. The cone goes 1.31 mm into the bore.

A close view of the front end of a brass tube with a quarter cut away, so the wall shows in section as a light strip. At the mouth the inner surface widens in a cone toward the front face. A dimension marks the cone 1.31 deep. Labels name the 30 degree internal cone (included angle), the 0.1 mm flat land at the lip (3.8 diameter), the outer edge (deburr only, do not round it), the 3.1 bore and the cut face of the wall.
T2: the mouth, cut away. The internal cone opens the bore from Ø3.1 to Ø3.8 at the lip and leaves a flat land of 0.1 mm.
T4: cut the internal cone. The bit centres itself in the bore. Stop when a flat land of 0.1 mm remains at the lip.
  1. Measure 80.90 mm from the front face. Make a mark.
  2. Cut at the mark with the tube cutter.
  3. Remove the burr from the bore at the aft end with the fine file.

Check: The length is 80.90 mm ±0.3 mm. The aft end is square.

  1. Cut a ring of 1.5 mm from the 5 mm tube with the tube cutter.
  2. Cut a ring of 1.5 mm from the 6 mm tube.
  3. Remove the burrs from the two rings.
  4. Clean the tube at the collar position with 400 grit abrasive paper and isopropyl alcohol.
  5. Slide the 5 mm ring onto the tube from the aft end.
  6. Slide the 6 mm ring onto the 5 mm ring.
  7. Put the front face of the collar 55.72 mm from the front face of the tube.
  8. Apply flux to the aft side of the collar.
  9. Solder the aft side of the two rings to the tube.
  10. Remove the flux with isopropyl alcohol.

Check: The front face of the collar is 55.72 mm ±0.2 mm from the front face of the tube. The front face of the collar is clean and square. The collar does not move.

T5: install the collar. Set its front face at 55.72 mm from the front face of the tube, then solder the aft side.
A side view of the finished brass tube with a small collar near the aft end, circled and marked B. Dimensions below the tube give 55.72 to the collar's front face and 80.90 overall, both ends square. Labels name the open mouth at the front face and the aft end, which goes into the silicone sleeve. Above, detail B at 4 to 1 shows the collar region cut away: the 5 mm ring on the tube, the 6 mm ring on the 5 mm ring, grey solder fillets on the aft side, and the front face of the collar, which bears on the Cone Plate's aft face at Y 30.
T3: the finished tube. Detail B shows the collar cut away: two rings, soft-soldered on the aft side only.
  1. Look through the bore at a light.
  2. Blow through the tube.

Check: The bore is clear. Air flows freely through the tube.

The tube has no joint in its wall, so the tube itself cannot leak. The leak check is part of the bench check after you install the tube.

  1. Install the tube. Refer to the build path, step 7, the nose package: put the tube in tip first from the rear of the Cone Plate, seat the collar in the plate’s aft pocket, and put in the M2 x 6 clamp screw.
  2. Do the bench check. Refer to the first-flight card, step 21.

The dimensions, the build order and the tolerances come from the pitot-tube project (commit 171d465; the figures cite 80b4b46, with the same dimensions). The tube’s mass and the installed position come from th-blender’s W104 promotion (888383ba), and the collar’s job and the sleeve’s grip from th-blender’s W102 fit pass. The parts and the V-bit are in the parts list (th-main a6f9b0b0). The ±0.3 mm length tolerance, the 10 mm of tube out of the vise and the statement that the tube cannot leak are pitot-tube’s reasoning, not measurements. The figures are from the pitot-tube project (commit 30baf7d).

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